Hasta Luego Boquete

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We have beautiful Boquete in the rearview. So why snake pictures? No particular reason, except it seemed odd that we were greeted by the fellow on top, a lovely coral snake on one of our first days in Boquete, and the fellow on the bottom, a fer de lance, on our very last evening there. The fer de lance is one of the most venomous & lethal pit vipers in the world, and this one was right outside our front door. Did we leave it alone? Oh boy, howdy.

This will be my last post from Panama as Mariah and I have decamped for Medellin Colombia.(visit soon at byallmeanstravel.com)  I feel compelled to reflect on our (very short) stay in Boquete, and to share a few thoughts. I don’t wish to disparage the quaint, quiet, lush, and lazy little town we called home for almost a year in total, but there are some things we’d like to share. Yes, comments are not only welcome, they’re encouraged.

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Miraflores Locks

Everyone should see the Panama Canal before they pass through to the other side. What’s this got to do with Boquete three hundred miles away? It seems, metaphorically speaking, that Panama is a transit point not only for the world’s commercial traffic from ocean to ocean, but for one’s passage to the next adventure as well. We don’t regret for a minute our time in western Panama: we made wonderful (hopefully life-long) friends; we enjoyed several relaxing and inspiring moments there; and we learned a whole lot about ourselves, which is the most valuable lesson anyone have have.

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January sunset in Chiriqui

We saw spectacular sunrises & sunsets. The ones we witnessed on Kauai were breathtaking, especially the green flash the locals told us about, but Panamanian sunrises & sunsets rival even those in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Gorgeous.

We saw amazing birds, migratory and otherwise. Indeed, the wildlife we were able to spot and enjoy were like no other we’d seen anywhere. Interesting, too, how the selection and variety changed all the time. When we first arrived, flocks of parakeets were a daily, predictable sight. Then they vanished, as if they’d never existed. Likewise Kingbirds, Palm Tanagers, Baltimore Orioles, thrushes and Squirrel Cuckoos arrived, then departed. Especially once the windy season arrived in force, the birds seemed to take shelter elsewhere. All but the tenacious little hummers. They stuck it out no matter what.

We’ll not forget the amazing contrasts in Panama, especially in and around Boquete. As pictured above, outrageous affluence appears next door to grinding poverty; kids with proscribed & difficult lives sit idly by while their parents toil in coffee fields alongside wealthy, carefree gringos with all the time in the world for a leisurely stroll through those same fields.

Then there’s the weather contrast, of course, and the primary reason we chose Panama in the first place. Number one shot above, Bocas del Mar, ahhhhh!; number two picture, outside our Ohio condo not long afterward. Brrrrrr! as Mariah says: no mas nieve para mi!

We learned a lot about ourselves living in Boquete. We don’t like the Green Acres life, as much as we thought we might: Chickens are basically stupid creatures; bananas grow everywhere, and we do get tired of eating them; as much as someone wanted a pet sloth, it ain’t happenin.’ But thanks D&E for letting us stay at Finca Luz. Farm of Light certainly enlightened us, even if it cost you a chicken or two. Sorry about that. We’re city people through and through, as much as we tried to deny it. We love the symphony, museums, movie theaters, great libraries, public transport. Okay, Starbucks, I admit it. I love Starbucks. Sue me.

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Not a one-horse town!

Last thoughts on our stay in Boquete, pure speculation, but I’ll put it out there anyway. Boquete, possibly Panama itself, needs more revenue.Sure the Canal spits off a billion or so annually, and politicians skim off their fair share, and there’s no transparency, yadda, yadda, yadda. Sounds like the same complaints we hear from up north. I don’t want to piss anybody off, but I have a strong suspicion that folks are shirking their responsibility. As one who firmly believes that taxes are the price we pay for a civilized society, I believe a lot more could be done by my fellow expats, revenue wise. Kudos to those who’ve pitched in to make the city a better place, I take nothing from you. Keep it up. It must feel like a losing battle at times. But without sufficient revenue, neglect becomes endemic.

Boquete is a fine example of this. The town could be a jewel of a place, lush, green, structured and tidy. It is not. Boquete could have neat and tidy streets. Verdant city parks. It could have sidewalks! Street signs! Sadly, Boquete is decrepit, with little attention to order and its infrastructure has decayed so badly what’s there hardly qualifies as adequate. It’s a shame. What’s the answer? Aside from falling back on the old bromide that it’s ‘a first-world problem,’ I’d suggest more $$$$, in the form of taxes.

I’ve not researched this thoroughly, so it’s likely useless opinion on my part, but a steady, predictable system of taxation & associated accounting of it might be just the ticket. One of the first things we encountered in Boquete was the proliferation of small businesses that operate solo efectivo. Not naming names, but it seems to me there’s only one purpose for a cash-only endeavor, and it ain’t environmental concern about using too much plastic. I believe it’s to disguise earnings, and maximize income. Okay, I’ll step off my horse. But one reason this rant appears now is that we’ve seen what can happen when revenue is sufficient for a modern, people-friendly city. It’s happening in Medellin. The absence of the challenges cited above are among the reasons we’ve moved away.

This is sounding like a whiny bitch fest, but there’s another aspect of it that comes to mind and then I’ll quit. This is just us, irritable, disenchanted gringos etc., but it’s another reason we won’t miss Boquete very much. It’s about a few of the very same gringos we encountered there, and the apparent reason they chose Panama for their retirement hidey-hole. When we decided to move to Boquete a few years ago our Norte Americano neighbors asked if we were afraid of the Panamanians, fearful of the local folks who’d surely molest us, pester us, rob us blind with gringo-bingo etc. Who knew we’d encounter these things from gringos? During our short but illustrious stay we met wonderful, caring, compassionate, fun people, folks we cherish and hope to keep up with. And we met some real stinkers. Not once but twice we received rather rude and unnecessarily avaricious treatment from landlords. Especially our last one at the Country Club. With all the cleaning fees, three different fumigations, an exciting afternoon marked by a gas explosion, defective appliances, constant power outages and the final insulting accusation that we stole bedsheets for pity sakes, we felt like unwanted vagrants, not something a renter needs while shelling out $1,200 bucks a month. BTW, anyone considering a rental at BCC, caveat emptor. Contact me and we’ll chat. Oh yes, a third landlord incident, this one involving only a potential arrangement, but still. After making inquiries to rent a certain place at The Springs, we were told in no uncertain terms that the unit was not available to the likes of us, because we were not dedicated Trumpsters. True story. The refusal stemmed from a Facebook post in which I was critical of ‘he who shall not be named.’ Evidently he can ‘say what’s on his mind,’ but the privilege does not extend to peons such as myself. Thanks, Dan, I hope your unit stays empty forever. I’m done now.

Anyway, we’re out of Boquete, now happily ensconced in Medellin. We’ve not been here long, just a week or less, but the difference is night and day. All the best to our friends in Boquete, we wish you well. Drop by the new site when you get a chance. byallmeanstravel.com will be up and running soon. Stay safe. Thanks for all you did for us. And beware of the gringos!